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Seasonal style tips from Savile Row legendary tailor
How does the world remember Paul Wolfovitz from the World Bank? What first came to your mind after seeing his name? Holes in his socks that were exposed during his visit to a mosque in Edirne, Turkey?
Of course he did a lot to fight poverty around the globe, but because of the staggering contrast of his high up position vs. poor wardrobe maintenance, he remains a subject of jokes about a banker with holes in his socks, putting into question his professional abilities, writes FinBuzz.
It’s no secret that one’s wardrobe should reflect professional achievements, but how to achieve that if you have no time to learn about style?
Brian Lishak, co-founder of the bespoke tailoring house Richard Anderson at 13 Savile Row tells you exactly what to wear this season to look at your best.
Cut is everything
“First of all, I need to say that Savile Row is not about trends, it is about making a man look his best using special cut and colour combinations”.
That’s why when you enter Brian’s atelier, you will be asked questions about your lifestyle and business style, measured and photographed. That kind of research ensures the final product is right just for you.
“Fashion Industry will sell you a trend,” says Brian, who worked at Huntsman from 1956 till 2001. “But our job at Savile Row is to make a man look as slim and tall as possible. Each client is different and we always look at a man’s size, habits, complexion, lifestyle and business style to guarantee he gets what is good for his personal ways, at the same time achieving as much of the trendy lean and hungry look as we possibly can.”
However, there are some trends that today’s men follow anyway and Brian simply offers the best products on the market.
“Modern men often prefer to wear jeans and a smart jacket, while in the past smart jackets would always go with smart pants”.
A few years ago, when the jeans trend began, Richard Anderson Ltd started searching for true denim and it led them to… Kurashiki! It is a well-known fact that denim was popularised in the USA, however when the love affair with American culture reached Japan in 1955, many Japanese businesses started to produce own denim and innovate. The company in Kurashiki went to Nîmes, France, where denim was originally produced by the Andre family, and bought the original denim-producing machines. They brought the machines back to Japan and up to this day produce a traditional raw vegetable-dyed indigo selvedge denim, which Brian uses for jeans and jackets.
“Japanese denim is arguably the best one the world now. There at Kurashiki they make for us special jeans that are cut by our designs. The trick is — we cut them slightly tight on the upper part of the leg and straight down from the knee. That makes our jeans compliment every figure.”
Pants and Shirts
“We also make special narrow corduroy trousers in ruby red, russet, brick orange and navy blue. Combined with sport designer shirts or light wool crewneck sweaters they help to easily achieve modern British stylish look.”
“As for the shirts — light blue is a universal colour. 50% of all shirts we sell are light blue, which is so easy to wear. However a lot of people still like pale pink and pale violet, which we make too. The only difference of our shirts is the wide-spread collar. That gives more space for the tie”.
For two years narrow lapels were in